This section shows a few tricks on installing the deck and the urethane extension piece.

The dive plane servo is pretty close to the end cap, so my pushrod kept binding. Now I have put the servo on its side so that it twists the rod through the cap and an arm on the end acts as any other control horn, converting twist into push.

 

 

First put sandpaper on your table and level off the top of the casting, then paint it black on the flat side.

Glue it to the conning tower floor.
Shape the interior until you're satisfied with how it sits and the periscope holes are lined up.

Cut off a half inch of the fairing. Keep it nice and straight, or clean it up with a long file.

Glue the assembly onto the conning tower and fill the void with resin.
Now you're ready to fab the railings, just like you did for the original Robbe. The plans included in the kit are 1:1, so it goes quickly. Plans are included for tower and deck railings.
To secure the front deck section, I broke the foredeck off completely and filed the two edges clean, then soldered a piece of flared brass tube to its underside.

I soldered a piece of tubing the next size down onto the other piece. I soldered it on while the two pieces were butted together and flat on a piece of metal.
Once the foredeck is glued in place, the tube maintains a positive alignment in the front and the rear is secured by two bollards containing brass screws.
On the rear deck I soldered a vertical tube, nice and clean with no burs.
I drilled a hole of the same size through the boat to mate up to it. Also visible are the springs that maintain tension on the aft cables.
First I used scissors to snip the splash guard off at the right length for my tower. (It comes presized for an uncut Robbe tower.) Then I soldered the tabs on all around. Three skinny ones are in the middle, and one on each end. Three fat ones fill each remaining gap.
I used a piece of thick brass as a spacer as I bent each tab around, to maintain an even gap on final installation.
After bending it around gently with fingers only, I inserted vertical rods and taped it all up. Of course I presanded the area where the tabs get epoxied onto the tower.
Here are some photos that may help. Notice that not all the spray deflectors flared out at the bottom.